Delirium is located in the Kaiser range of Austria. This range is in the northern beginning of the Alps and has been very popular among climbers for over 100 years. Legendary climbers like Herman Buhl and Hans Dülfer put up many classic lines here, and the history of the place makes it even more special. For example, near Delirium, there is another route called Pumprisse, which was the first-ever 7 on the UIAA scale and was first ascended by Rheinard Karl and Helmut Kiene in 1977.
I have been climbing in this area for several years. Three years ago, I freed Scheffler/Siegert (8a+ / 6/A2 ), an old aid climbing line from the early '60s, protected just with pegs and traditional gear. While trying this route, I discovered to the right a super steep, blank wall without any routes. A year later, I came back with some friends, and we started to establish the first meters of a new route. Last year, we finished the route in three days. All the establishing was made ground up and in the best style we were able to.
But due to very bad conditions last year, it was impossible to redpoint the whole route. This year the weather was very good and the whole line was dry for a longer period. I was lucky to send it in one day after four days of finding the right sequence for the crux. The route was a great adventure because after the four overhanging pitches, the line changes to alpine terrain, and you have to find your way through another four clean pitches in an awesome setting. It was a day I will never forget.
A tribute to the climbing life
This is a small edit of raw footage about two sportclimbing projects in Achleiten, Austria.
Achleiten is a nice crag pretty close to my home. There a super derb routes and as I grew up there as a climber
I bolted a few lines many years ago, too. Last year I was able to send two of them "Lichtblick" and "The Void".
About the grading: I suggest 9a for both of them - but let's see what other climbers will say.
Special thanks to Stefan Kühn and Fabian Hagenauer for the edit.
I had the opportunity to visited the Black Diamond Headquarter in SaltLakeCity Utha.
The BD athlet summitweek was on the run, it was a great time that we spend togehter.
All the boys and girls are super psyched, we love our passion we live our passion thats awesome.
We checked the BD headquarter and leard a lot about the brand, defently an super authentik brand
with awesome people on it.
The Rockproject Tour stopped in SLC and I was part of it and I can say its a perfect example work togehter for an activ responsibility from climbers for climbers. Commit the pact !!!
Next trip oversea is planning...
This artical is from the BlackDiamond experience site...
Fugu, located at Schleierwasserfall in Tirol, Austria, is one of the best and biggest sport climbing spots of Austria (and maybe worldwide). It is well known for its futuristic routes, set by legendary climber Alexander Huber nearly 20 years ago. Two of the best and most difficult are definitely Weisse Rose (FA A. Huber, 1994) and Open Air (FA A.Huber, 1996).
Both routes were first repeated by Adam Ondra in 2008, and he gave Open Air a suggested grade of 9a+ (5.15a), which meant that the line was the first of its grade ever worldwide. During Adam's 2008 visit, he also made the first ascent of an old visionary Alexander Huber project that was bolted in 1998. Adam named the route Fugu because all of the climbs in the Aquarium Sector have fish names, and the line is as delicious as a gourmet fish dish, too.
Fugu is about 25 meters of climbing, starting with 15 meters of steep 8a climbing. After this, the first boulder starts and it is around Fb 7C, which leads into a bad rest. Then the second crux has to be climbed in the grade of Fb 7C+. Both cruxes are very close together, and due to the bad rest, it is very hard to connect both sections. A lot of body tension is needed for sure. After the cruxes there are a few easy meters to go where you shouldn't fall.
I started to check the moves of the route out in autumn last year, spending just one day on the route. I realized the climbing fits my style very well, so I was very motivated to try it after this winter. In the middle of March, I returned to Fugu five days in a row. On the fifth day, I was lucky to make the first repeat of this amazing line. Not only the history of Schleierwasserfall but also the quality of the rock and the nice landscape make this place special to me. I am looking forward to sharing further great times at this place in the future.
All photographs: Fabian Hagenauer
A small review of some
climbing-projects about the last year, footage from:
Zillertal First Ascent ``Goldensecret``, Aladaglar Expedtion, Zarathustra First Ascent, Solo per vecchi,
First Ascent Wilder Kaiser,
Film&Cut: Stefan Kühn, Fabian Hagenauer
Sound: Missue / BroadPeak / soundcloud.com/missuemusic/broadpeak